Simple Tip to Raise Your Score – Credit Score Tips

Simple Tip To Raise Your Score

Have you noticed if your score hasn’t changed on one of your accounts even though you pay every month on time? The reason this happens sometimes is because of the date you make your payment. You can actually get your score to go up some by making sure that you pay your card account just before the creditor reports to the Credit Reporting Agencies.

So let me explain; if you’re paying your card off every month, find out when it’s reporting and pay it on a time to make sure it’s reporting correctly. So what I mean by that is make sure that when you use your card, you understand your reporting date; the time that it starts and when it ends. They usually report on your statement closing date. You should probably call customer service and ask when it reports to be on the safe side. So when it ends you want to make sure that you pay your bill right before that.

This may depend on the bureau. Experian, for example, claims that “your credit report shows the balance on your credit card at the moment it is reported by your lender” (emphasis ours). But different bureaus may update at different speeds and frequencies.

Here’s a tip and how to use it to your advantage to get your score to either go up or to be more stable. You want to make sure that you leave at least two percent to ten percent of your balance on the account. I wouldn’t go over ten percent. Usually when you go over ten percent you start to see your scores drop down.
This shows that you utilize your credit correctly.

It shows that you’re a good borrower and it’s gonna help you to raise that score up.

Try it out and see.  Get a Free Credit Analysis – 719-454-FREE


mortgage calculator

How Long Should I Finance My New Home – Handy Mortgage Calculator

Use the free mortgage calculator below to see what you may end up paying on a new home.

Plus your numbers into the mortgage calculator below to find out how long to finance your new home. By the way, years ago I bought my house in Dallas, TX.  An old boyfriend told me that I should put down as little as possible and finance it for as long as I possible.  I’m sure he assumed that within a few years I would get married, have children and upgrade to a larger house.  The mortgage companies know this.  The mortgage companies have statistics that new homeowners might sell within five to 10 years due to any number of life events.

When having children the new home may not be large enough for a family. Especially if the couple wants more than two or three children.  Sadly some sell to soon due to divorce.  Whatever the reason, mortgage companies know by statistics that homes will very probably get sold within five to six years. They will have made a lot interest without very much of the principle being depleted. Basically, you will be paying mostly interest and taxes in the early years. The good news is your lovely home will have appreciated over time.

How Much Should I Pay Down On a Mortgage

mortgage calculatorYour real estate agent says that to finance a home loan you can expect to give at least a 20 percent down payment. You tell your wife what you’ve been told on the phone, and she is ecstatic that you will be able to afford the home of her dreams. Everything seems fine until your real estate agent tells you that to make your monthly payments cheaper, you are going to have to give up on the idea of making a 20 percent down payment.

Should I Finance for Fifteen Years or Thirty Years

How long should I finance a mortgage? What will my monthly payments be and how much interest will I pay? Check the mortgage calculator below to crunch some numbers.

Personally I wish that I had mortgaged my house for only fifteen (15) years.  I bought that house in 1987 and sold it in 2016.  I took the advise of the old boyfriend and financed it for thirty years.  If I had only done the fifteen year stint, I would have had the house paid off so much sooner.  What if I had wanted to sell sooner?  I would have had so much more equity in that house.  Due your own research and decide what is best for you.  A 30 year mortgage is great for some people, but may not be for everyone.

The average mortgage loan in the US is around $270,000. This is useful information to help you understand what interest rates and payments will be like. But how long should I finance a mortgage? This is something that will ultimately depend on your own situation and needs.  The advantage of financing your new home for thirty years is that your monthly payments will be lower in the long run.  But, you will pay a lot more interest to the mortgage company or bank.

Choose what type of interest rate is right for you?

A fixed-rate mortgage is a type of mortgage loan that has the same interest rate for the entire life of the loan. This means that you will be paying the same amount each month for your mortgage, regardless of how long it takes you to pay off your loan. Fixed-rate mortgages are usually offered for 15 or 30 years, but some may last even longer.

An adjustable rate mortgage is a loan that has an interest rate that changes over time. Usually there is an attractive introductory rate for this type of mortgage. The adjustable rate mortgage can start out at a low rate, but then the interest rate can increase after several years. The length of the loan varies depending on how long it takes for the interest rate to change.  My mortgage was an adjustable rate based on T-Bills back in 1987 and it went down for many years. It may not be that way now in the 2000’s, but check with your real estate agent. Use the mortgage calculator below to figure the interest payment at different percentages.

What is the minimum credit score I need to qualify for a mortgage?

mortgage calculatorUsually a mortgage lender will use your FICO score to decide credit worthiness.   The FICO Score ranges from 300-850.  You will need to have a score of 620 or higher.  For an FHA loan the minimum FICO score required is 580, but you would probably want a higher score for a better interest rate.
Also it’s important to understand that even though a lender may tell you they require a certain credit score in order for you to qualify for a loan, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer here! While lenders typically look at at least one of your scores when determining whether or not you qualify for a loan, they may also look at other factors like income, employment history, and debt-to-income ratio (among other things).

So if you’re wondering what your minimum credit score is and what you can do about it—that’s where we come in!

Should I make extra payments on my mortgage?

When a borrower makes extra payments on their mortgage, that money is usually applied to the principal. In other words you can be paying down on the balance owed.  Paying extra every month will also save a lot of interest in the long run and shorten the length of your loan. The interest that you save will also allow you to deduct that on taxes.  Paying extra every money will increase the equity in your home faster if you make those extra payments and get it paid off sooner.  Check with your lender because some deals have a prepayment penalty. Make sure if you do pay extra one month, note on the check how much will go to the principal. I would also make a note on the payment stub or if you pay online.

 

Take advantage of this mortgage calculator?  Let me now how it worked for you in the comment section below.

MortgageCalculator.org

Javascript Mortgage Calculator by MortgageCalculator.org

Conclusion: To get a great interest rate it’s best to have a credit score in the 700’s.

If you want information about our credit restoration service, click this explanation link below. Don’t Cuss, Call Us!

https://personaltouchcreditcounselors.com/what-is-metro-2-compliance/

Use this link to order credit reports.


  • -

What Are The Codes On My Credit Reports

Category : Credit Repair

credit report codes
If you’ve requested your credit reports recently – or only peeked at them after a bank or another lender pulled your credit files – you may be wondering about some cryptic-looking codes and abbreviations you saw.

The three main credit bureaus — Equifax, Experian and TransUnion — each have their own way of describing your payment history. So these three credit-reporting agencies use various codes – such as numbers, letters or symbols – as a shorthand to signal how well (or how poorly) you’ve managed your credit.

When you’re trying to get approved for a mortgage, an auto loan, a student loan, or even just a credit card, it’s bad news to have certain kinds of codes showing in your credit reports.

Here is an explanation of the different codes and abbreviations you’ll find on your consumer credit files, depending on which credit report is being examined.

Codes On Your Equifax Credit Report

Your payment history breakdown is fairly straightforward in Equifax credit files. Therefore, the meaning of the numbers, letters and symbols used in Equifax credit reports are generally pretty easy to understand. Overall, you want to see a lot of asterisk signs that look like this: *. That’s because an asterisk (*) symbol on an Equifax credit report means “pays or paid as agreed.” The vast majority of other notations indicate negative marks on your Equifax credit file, although there are a few exceptions to this.

For example: if a creditor simply didn’t report information about you for some reason in a given month or year, that account history will be classified as “Not Reported” and you will see a code that says NR. This NR code is neutral; it’s not positive or negative for your credit file. But pretty much everything else shows that you have credit blemishes.

Negative Codes on an Equifax Credit File

For instance, here are a host of credit problems you may have faced, along with the Equifax letter code that summarizes or abbreviates the problem.
Collection Account: CA
Charge Off: CO
Foreclosure: F
Repossession: R
Voluntary Surrender: VS

When it comes to missed payments, Equifax uses number codes to indicate the severity of your delinquency. So the length of your time that your payment was past due will typically serve as the number code used. Thus, if you’re 30-59 days past due on an account, it will say: 30.

Past-due accounts are noted on Equifax like this:
30-59 Days Past Due: 30
60-89 Days Past Due: 60
90-119 Days Past Due: 90
120-149 Days Past Due: 120
150-179 Days Past Due: 150
180+ Days Past Due: 180

Obviously, the longer you go without making required payments, the more damaging that is to your credit score. The good news is that even if you have less-than-perfect credit, you can still get credit or a loan, as long as your credit files aren’t completely riddled with late payments and other negative marks.

Codes That Describe Inquiries On Your Equifax Credit Report

There are a few other codes you may see in your Equifax credit report. These pertain specifically to “soft” inquiries made about you by a host of creditors, lenders, insurers, employers and others.
Your existing creditors sometimes initiate inquiries, or reviews of your credit, purely as a way to keep tabs on your credit health. These are known as “soft” credit inquiries. They do not impact your credit score and other people can’t see them; only you can.

Your current creditors may be doing soft pulls of your credit report in order to decide whether to increase or decrease your credit line. Alternatively, they may be reviewing your credit files to make you a promotional offer of some kind.

This is also the case with other third-party banks, lenders and additional entities with whom you are not presently doing business. They get your name, address and limited credit information about you – but not your full, detailed credit report – solely for the purpose of making you a credit offer.

According to Equifax, these are some of the notations you might find related to various soft inquiries made of your credit file.
PRM – Inquiries with this prefix indicate that only your name and address were given to a credit grantor so they can provide you a firm offer of credit or insurance. PRM inquiries remain on your credit report for 12 months.
AM or AR – Inquiries with these prefixes indicate a periodic review of your credit history by one of your creditors. Both AM and AR inquiries also remain visible to you on your credit report for 12 months.
EMPL – Inquiries with this prefix indicate an employment inquiry. EMPL inquiries remain on your credit report for 24 months.
PR – Inquiries with this prefix indicate that a creditor reviewed your account as part of a portfolio they are purchasing. PR inquiries will remain on your credit for 12 months.
Equifax or EFX – Inquiries with these prefixes indicate Equifax’s activity in response to your contact with the credit bureau for a copy of your credit file or a research request.
ND – Inquiries with this prefix are general inquiries that do not display to credit grantors. ND inquiries remain on your credit report for 24 months.
ND MR – Inquiries with this prefix indicate the reissue of a mortgage credit file containing information from your Equifax credit file to another company in connection with a mortgage loan. ND inquiries will show on your credit file for 24 months.

Codes On Your Experian Credit Report

Now let’s take a look at the codes and abbreviations found on another credit report: the credit file about you that is maintained by Experian.

In your Experian credit reports, the most positive code you can see is the notation: OK.  The OK reference is just like it sounds. When you see “OK” next to an account shown in your Experian credit file, it means that there are no problems with your payment history, that you are current and have met the terms of your agreement.
There are two neutral codes in an Experian report. The first is: CLS, which means closed. The second is: ND, which means there is no data reported for the time period.
Other than the codes just mentioned, all the rest of the number codes and letters you’ll find on an Experian report are reflective of credit payment problems.
Negative Codes on an Experian Credit File.

For example, here are a variety of negative credit scenarios, and the Experian codes used to describe them:
30 Days Past Due: 30
60 Days Past Due: 60
90 Days Past Due: 90
120 Days Past Due: 120
150 Days Past Due: 150
180 Days Past Due: 180
Collection: C
Charge off: CO
Creditor received deed: CRD
Defaulted on contract: D
Foreclosed: F
Foreclosure proceedings started: FS
Claim filed with government: G
Insurance claim: IC
Paid by creditor: PBC
Repossession: R
Voluntarily surrendered: VS

Again, none of these are a definite credit deathblow in and of themselves. But if your credit reports show a repeated pattern of late payments and an inability or unwillingness to pay your obligations, then banks, credit unions and other financial institutions definitely won’t be beating down your door to offer you credit.

Codes On Your TransUnion Credit Report

Finally, the TransUnion credit bureau also has its own codes to summarize your credit history and payment behavior.  The main code you want to see is OK – as this notation means that you are current on an account.

Besides an “OK” listing, there are four neutral codes on a TransUnion credit file. These are:
CLO – Closed
INA – Inactive Account
N/R – which means Not Reported
X – which means Unknown

None of these codes harm your credit rating, so don’t panic if you see them on your TransUnion credit report. Negative Codes on a TransUnion Credit File. However, other codes in your TransUnion credit file do show harm or damage to your credit health. These include:
30 Days Late: 30
60 Days Late: 60
90 Days Late: 90
120+ Days Late: 120
Charge Off: C/O
Collection: COL
Foreclosure: FC
Repossession: RPO
Voluntary Surrender: VS

When you examine your TransUnion credit report, it’s also possible that you might see various “remarks” noted. According to TransUnion officials, these remarks occur when creditors make certain comments about your account(s). Any remark that contains brackets like these: < >

A few examples of negative remarks might be comments related to a bankruptcy, a case where a judgment was obtained, a lease was broken, or an account was settled for less than the original amount due.

Now that you have a clear understanding of what all those codes and abbreviations in your credit report mean, you should work hard to improve your credit standing – and also dispute any erroneous information you might find in your credit files.


Can a Debt Collector Sue Me?

Tags :

Category : Debt Relief

Stop Debt Collectors from Harassing You

First and foremost! I would never talk to a debt collector over the phone. Your “Rights” are never served over the phone. I used to tell them, “Send it in writing!” and then I would hang up.  If you allow them to talk to you, many of the third party debt collection companies use scare tactics and make false statements to scare you into making a deal and paying them. Some of the lies they will tell you are:
– We’re going to send the Sheriff to get you. You can be arrested.
– We can come and get your belongings, your home or your bank account.
– §We’re calling because you owe a debt. You know it and we don’t have to prove anything.
– We’re going to call your employer and garnish your wages.
– You have committed a crime by not paying this debt.

None of that is true. They just want you to admit that you owe a debt. They like it even better if you make a deal to pay them a little money. Then you’re really hooked; you just made a new contract with them. I would never talk to anyone over the phone. If its not in writing, it didn’t happen.

You can see other violations in the Fair Debt Collections Practices Act. This is a Federal law and you can sue the third party debt collectors if they violate your rights in this law. This law is not intended for use with original creditors like the banks. Those companies are the original creditors. This law was created to prevent third party debt collection abuse.

See the law here: Fair Debt Collections Practices Act

What is a 3rd Party Debt Collector?

Third part debt collectors have merely purchased an alleged debt from your original creditor or from a clearing house. Sometimes these alleged debts are purchased in bundles. The bad news is that these debt collection companies, who prey on the uninformed, purchase these alleged debts for only “Pennies on the Dollar” and sometimes even less that a penny.

So for example, if you defaulted on a credit card account for $5,000, that debt collection company may have only paid $100 or $200 for it. Then they start calling you and harassing you to pay the full $5,000 plus interest. Does that sound fair?

Someone asked if you can contact the original bank to try and negotiate the original debt. Most times once an alleged debt has been sent off to a collection agency, the original creditor will have nothing more to do with that debt. This is why we call them third party debt collectors.

Never Speak to a Debt Collector on the Phone

None of that is true. They just want you to admit that you owe a debt. They like it even better if you make a deal to pay them a little money. Then you’re really hooked. AND the statute of limitations clock starts all over again. I would never talk to anyone over the phone. If it’s not in writing, it didn’t happen.

You can see other violations in the Fair Debt Collections Practices Act. This is a Federal law and you can sue the third party debt collectors if they violate your rights in this law. This law is not intended for use with banks, credit card companies, auto loans, etc. Those companies are the original creditors. This law was created to prevent third party debt collection abuse.

But Still, Can They Sue Me?

Yes they can, but that does not mean that they can win. They don’t have the proof.  If they were to win and get a judgment against a consumer, they could garnish wages or in some states take some belongings. But again, they would have to win. If a consumer does nothing to rebut the complaint, the collector will surely win.

Consumers have rights and the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act spells out these rights. Can the collector really validate the alleged debt? Short answer: NO.

Bob’s Bad Scenario

If Bob lives in Florida there is a four year statute of limitations on an open-ended accounts or credit card debts. If Bob defaulted on a credit card debt by making his last payment in March 30, 2002 the bank would likely have written it off by the end of September 2002. That debt would be dead by April 2006. A bank compliance officer that worked with us told me that after the bank writes it off, it gets sold out to the third party debt collectors.

In this scenario, Bob gets a call from a third party debt collector company that had purchased this alleged debt in 2009 (three years after the limit). If that company called Bob on the phone and threatened him, they would not really have any teeth, just bluster. BUT, if Bob didn’t know the Fair Debt Collections Practices Act, a U.S. Law, and paid them a small amount, he just made a new contract with them. Then he’s bound by that contract all over again. It’s a whole new valid debt. They could even sue him in court. The debt collection company made an offer and Bob secured the contract with a small payment. That never had to happen.

Send Validation Demand Letters Certified

When a consumer sends any correspondence to a debt collector or law firm it is a must that the letter be sent “Certified” with a return receipt request attached. The post office can provide the two small forms needed. The reason for this is to prevent a debt collector from saying that they did not receive the debt validation letter.

What is Zombie Debt?

Many collectors buy debts that are old and try to trick consumers into paying them.  Each state has statute that states a time limit on certain types of debts. In other words, debts has an expiration date. For instant in Colorado after three (3) years from the time of the last payment, a debt collector cannot sue for an alleged debt. That doesn’t mean they can’t try.

That doesn’t keep the third party debt collectors from buying and trying to collect on old debts. They are hoping that the consumer doesn’t know the statutes and the FDCPA law. Consumers have busy lives and normally don’t study this subject.

You can check your states statute of limitations on debt at: http://PersonalTouchCreditCounselors.com/statute-of-limitations

Why I don’t like debt settlement companies

Debt settlement companies probably don’t want you to know about this. I contacted a debt settlement company that was advertising on the internet. I won’t mention any names, but I’ll call this company “ABC company”. The man I spoke with said that they could reduce my credit cart debt by about 50%. When they added their fee on top of the 50%, it turned into about 65% to 70%. Then I found out that their fee would be paid before they would being paying my so-called creditors.

If it was going to take almost a year to pay their fee before they started paying the creditors. The BIG PROBLEM with this, I’m told, is that many banks write off an account if they can’t collect on it within 180 days (six months). A bank compliance officer told me that if the bank writes off an account, they sell it off to third party debt collectors or to a debt clearing house.

If the debt settlement company (ABC Company) isn’t paying the original bank until after their fee was paid, they would start paying a third party debt collector. In my way of thinking, if I don’t have a contract with a third party debt collector, then I don’t own them the full amount of the alleged debt! I suppose that “ABC Company” would negotiate the amount down some.

Remember that the third party debt collectors only paid pennies on the dollar for these alleged debts. Then they want a consumer to pay the whole original amount plus interest. I don’t know about you, but I don’t think that’s fair.

The same goes for debt consolidation companies.

Why I Would Never Borrow Against My Home To Pay Off Debt

You home is one of your most important assets. If I were to borrow against my home and something terrible happened and I couldn’t pay my debts, I would lose my home. Many states have homestead laws that protect your home against debt collection.

Bankruptcy is Not a Good Answer

A bankruptcy can stay on your credit report for seven to ten years (dependent on the type of bankruptcy and state obtained). It can make it very difficult to obtain future credit, buy a home or car and sometimes even get a job. Almost every creditor, lender, and employer asks if you have ever filed bankruptcy. Due to the severity of this option it should always be considered as a last resort.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bankruptcy_in_the_United_States

Fascinating Information Below

“The Money Masters” is a brilliant video about the how money was created and how the Federal Reserve works. Don’t miss this fascinating and historical documentary.  http://www.themoneymasters.com/the-money-masters/

“The Creature from Jekyll Island, A Second Look at The Federal Reserve”  Audio CD: “An Address by G. Edward Griffin.  Here is a close look at the Money Magicians’ mirrors and smoke machines, the pulleys, cogs, and wheels that create the grand illusion called money. Based on Mr. Griffin’s book of the same title”.  https://realityzone.com/product/creature-from-jekyll-island-lecture-1-cd/

“Two Faces of Debt” is a booklet in the fifth revision of “Debt – Jekyll and Hyde” originally published by the Federal Reserve Bank of Chicago in the November 1953 issue of its monthly review.  https://www.scribd.com/document/192190186/Federal-Reserve-Bank-Two-Faces-of-Debt

 


What is Metro 2 Compliance

Category : Credit Repair

Did You Know that Most Credit Repair Companies Use an Outdated Dispute Process? The Credit Bureaus Can Deem Your Disputes Frivolous and shut down. We Use the Newest and Most Effective Metro2 Compliance Process.

So, What is Metro 2 Compliance. Metro 2 is the standard format for which financial institutions must send data about their loan customers electronically to the major credit reporting agencies (CRAs).  One of the goals or benefits that should be derived from using a standard format should enable banks to comply with the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) and the Equal Credit Opportunity Act (ECOA). 

The Consumer Data Industry Association (CDIA) provides the definitions that go along with Metro 2 compliance language.  Recently, federal regulators have placed an increased emphasis on the completeness and accuracy of the data being transmitted to the major CRAs and data being published by the each of the CRAs. 
 A review of the CFPB’s Consumer Complaint Database noted over  50,000 complaints from January 1, 2016 through February 28, 2017 related to credit bureau reporting.  The accuracy of the data being reported to and by the major CRAs is critical to a consumer’s ability to receive credit in today’s marketplace.  Below are some tips to ensure your credit bureau reporting process is complete and accurate.

Why We Use Metro 2 Compliance

Many credit repair companies use an outdated process to try to clean up a consumer’s credit reports.  Our process is different in that we don’t dispute…  we challenge!

If the check for compliance is deficient, delayed, refused, or questionable in any manner, we attack the bureaus and data furnishers with a lawfully leveraged challenge to demonstrate the certification of factual reporting. This includes the mandatorily perfect and complete Metro 2 formatted reporting standards, the applicable  requisites of the FCRA and the applicable requisites of the FDCPA, and any additional standard or regulation.

metro 2 compliance in credit repairMoreover, in the M2C method, if the check for compliance is deficient or delayed or refused or elsewise questionable in any manner, we contest the accusing parties with a lawfully leveraged challenge to demonstrate the certification of factual reporting (the process as well as the item itself of reporting) which includes the mandatorily perfect and complete metro 2 formatted reporting standards, the applicable requisites of the Fair Credit Reporting Act and the applicable requisites of the Fair Debt Collections Practices Act, and or any standard or regulation otherwise, be it mentioned or not.

Compliance of reporting is a minimal standard of reporting not an optional one whereas truth and validity of claims is a minimum standard of collection, but not all items that meet collection standards meet the requisites of reporting. The fact is, you can have a collect-able item not be legally report-able!

Due to the fact that humans can and do make mistakes, errors can and do occur.  If its not 100% correct it must be deleted. 

We look forward to serving you.

 


What if a Debt Collector Calls Me?

Category : Debt Relief

What if I get a call or a letter from the collection agency?

First, never speak with a debt collector over the phone.  Your rights are never served on a phone call.  You want the collection agency to validate and prove that it really is your alleged debt. You’ll want to send them a debt validation letter right away.  Send this letter via certified mail with a return receipt. That way they can never say that they did not get a response from you!!!  You must get this letter out right away because you only have 30 days to respond by federal law.  If you miss the 30 day deadline the debt collector has the right to report the alleged debt to the credit reporting agencies if you don’t challenge this. 

debt collector

You can search the internet for debt validation letters, but we have some very powerful letters with a lot of “legalese” to make the collectors go away.  So you ask, “why would they go away?”  Because they really and truly cannot legally validate an alleged debt without your wet-ink signature on a “contract”.  They don’t have it.  

In your validation letter, let the debt collector know not to send you a computer printout itemizing your outstanding debt, as this is not sufficient proof according to the Federal Trade Commission opinion letters. These letters are interpretation of the law written by FTC staff attorneys. Instead, ask the collector to provide you with a copy of the following:

  • Their bond and license to collect in your state.
  • A copy of the agreement authorizing them to collect debt on behalf of the creditor.
  • An accounting statement on how they reached the amount you supposedly owe.
  • A copy of the contract you signed with the creditor bearing your signature.
  • The name and address of the creditor.

If, within 30 days, the debt collection agency sends you what they construe as proof, you can try to settle the outstanding amount for pennies on the dollar. You have 30 days to conclude your deal with the collection agency.

Personally I would never negotiate with a debt collection agency because they can never validate.  I would send them a default letter stating that since they did not validate under oath with my signatures on a contract, they must cease collection activity and may NOT report to any credit agency.

If you decide to negotiate and you can’t reach an agreement with the collector within that 30 days, they can, by law, report the negative item to the credit bureau. If they fail to validate and still report the negative item to the credit bureaus, then they have violated section 809(a) of the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act. This Federal Act mandates that collectors give you a chance to dispute the debt before reporting.

P.S.  Get a copy of your 3-n-1 credit reports plus your scores for only $1. Click this link for the special offer: Get Your 3-n-1 Credit Reports

 

Refer a friend who signs up and receive a $50 thank you check. 



Win In Court Without a Lawyer or Trial

Category : Credit Repair

Yes! You can win without a risky trial. Lawyers drag out cases so they can bill more time. You don’t have to wait for trial to win! You aren’t billing for your time! JurisDictionary® shows how to win before trial. There is no evidence you cannot get before trial. There are no witnesses you cannot question under oath before trial. There are no documents or things you cannot get before trial. There are no legal arguments you cannot make before trial. There is nothing going to happen at trial that cannot be made to happen before trial.

Common reasons cases go to trial are: Lazy lawyer didn’t do the pre-trial work he could have done. Stupid lawyer didn’t know how to do the pre-trial work he could have done. Greedy lawyer didn’t want to do the pre-trial work he could have done. Lawyer had no idea how to do the pre-trial work that could have been done.

Pre-trial work you will learn in this case-winning tactics course is : Don’t wait for trial! Trial is uncertain, with unpredictable juries and crooked lawyers. Trial is “thinking on your feet” with your opponent trying to throw you off with multiple objections. Trial is a nasty battle against lawyers’ willing to cheat if they can. Trial is your last bite at the apple, with no take backs and no retreats.

Win before trial … and do it without a lawyer! It’s easier than you may imagine! JurisDictionary® shows how.

You won’t need a lawyer! Proceed to the Course:

Justice Should Be for All!
(Not Just the Rich who can Afford Lawyers!)


How To Win in Court

Category : Credit Repair

If you’re being harassed by debt collectors, we can help nip that in the bud. But if you need other lawsuit help, we recommend “How to Win in Court” Manual. You can defend yourself. Get more info here:

Be Your Own Lawyer

Can’t find a lawyer to take your case?

Can’t afford what lawyers charge?

Use JurisDictionary® to represent yourself.

If someone says it’s foolish, ask them, “What’s choice do I have?”

Too many good people lose just because they can’t afford a lawyer.

Others hire lawyers who:

  • are afraid to challenge judges
  • don’t know how to write proper pleadings.
  • don’t know how to get evidence into the record
  • don’t know how to properly move the court
  • don’t know how to make courtroom objections
  • drop you when your money runs out

Represent Yourself.

JurisDictionary® has helped thousands win without a lawyer!

  • It’s easy to learn.
  • You’ll learn quickly (in just 24 hours).
  • You’ll KNOW how to win!

 


What is DOLA

Category : Credit Repair

As I always say, never! never! speak with debt collectors over the phone. Only deal in writing. When they call, I would just tell them to send it in writing and HANG UP the phone right then.


Having said that, here’s why. By them just calling you and verifying your phone number and address, they can update your DOLA date (Date of Last Activity). They can legally do that. Phone conversations can constitute activity on your account.

Also if your were to make an arrangement to make a payment (just to get them off your back) you just agreed to the alleged debt, that it is valid and this action will start the statute of limitations time frame for your state all over again. Then they can legally come after you and/or sue you. If the statute of limitations on debt in your state had already passed, you just started the clock again. The account ages again and can lower your score and stay on your reports for another seven years.

If a lender sees open collections on your reports, it matters not how little or how much that collection is. It is still a derogatory element against you (regardless if it is paid in full).

Need help with collectors? Want them to just go away? We use federal law to make them go away.

P.S. Third party debt collectors only pay pennies on the dollar for alleged debts that they purchase.

Get your 3-in-one credit report: Click Here.